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OF WATER RATES RATES INFORMATIONCommodity
charges (rate/hundred cubic feet)
BILLING INFORMATIONOur goal is to supply you with the finest possible drinking water at the lowest possible price. All customers pay the same rate which is $1.65 per unit. A unit is 748 gallons of water. In our service area, the average per capita use for residents is about 166 gallons each day. The average monthly bill is about $31.90. We are located at 716 Main Street in Weaverville. You may pay your bills in person at our office, mail your payment with the bill stub, or drop the payment in our convenient drop boxes. If you need any billing information, or have a problem with your meter, have a question about water quality or conservation; please call us at (530) 623-5051. Our customer service representatives will do their best to help you. You will need the address, and/or account number. In fact, if you can, please have the bill in hand so that you can answer the questions the customer service representative will be asking of you.
YOU MAY PAY YOUR BILL IN PERSON AT THIS LOCATION:Weaverville
Community Services District MAIL YOUR PAYMENTS TO:Weaverville
Community Services District DROP BOXES ARE LOCATED AT:Weaverville
Community Services District REMEMBER:You are billed once a month for the water you use, plus a meter service charge based on the size of your meter. Weaverville Community Services District (W.C.S.D.) is responsible for the water pipes on the street side of your meter. All plumbing on the customer side of the meter is your responsibility. |
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Reading Your Water MeterA water meter mesures the amount of water that you use, and is read every month by a reresentative of Weaverville CSD. By being able to read your meter you can accurately measure your water use - determining how much water you use over a specific period of time (a day or week for instance), or in the performance of a single job (like watering the lawn). To do either task, cimply record the reading on the meter at the start of the period (or start of the job) and then record the reading at the end of the period or job. Make certain that no one else in the house or yard is using water during the test, or the results will be invalid. The difference between the two readings tells you how many cubic feet of water you used. A cubic foot is equal to 7.5 gallons, so multiply by 7.5 to convert that figure to gallons. The "speedometer" type meter works like the odometer in your car...except it records cubic feet of water instead of miles travelled. The five-figure number shown on the meter gives you the starting and ending readings. (example shown is 8,171 cubic feet) Remember, all readings are in cubic feet, so you must multiply by 7.5 to convert to gallons. Checking for leaks: The small pointer near the center of the "spedometer" meter or the one-foot dial (it's the one at the lower left) on the "clock" meter can be used to check for a leak in your home's water system. With all water turned off in the house, there should be no movement of the small pointer on the speedometer meter or any of the dials on the clock style meter. |
How to Prevent Frozen PipesFrozen pipes aren’t just an inconvenience. An average of a quarter-million families have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted each winter… all because of water pipes that freeze, burst and destroy. And if you think recovering from frozen pipes is as simple as calling a plumber, think again. An eighth-inch crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons of water a day, wrecking floors, furniture and keepsakes. Both plastic (PVC) and copper pipes may burst. Imagine if your pipes were to freeze and break while you were away on vacation. Your homecoming would be a soggy one and your fix-it plea to a plumber would have to be accompanied by calls to a contractor, carpet-layer, painter and furniture store. Damage might be so severe that you and your family would have to move out of your home while repairs are made. By taking a few simple precautions, you can save yourself the mess, money and aggravation frozen pipes cause. Here are a few simple steps to protect your home or apartment. Before the Cold HitsINSULATEInsulate pipes in your home’s crawl spaces and attic. These exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember: the more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be. HEAT TAPEHeat tape or thermostatically controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturer’s installation and operation instructions. SEALSeal leaks that allow cold air inside, near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents and pipes. Use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out and the heat in. With severe wind chill, a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze. DISCONNECTDisconnect garden hoses and, if practical, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house. If You’re AwaySET the thermostat in your house no lower than 55 degrees. ASK a friend or neighbor to check your house daily to make sure it’s warm enough to prevent freezing, or… SHUT OFF and drain the water system. Be aware that if you have a fire protection sprinkler system in your house,it will be deactivated when you shut off the water. If Your Pipes FreezeDON’T TAKE CHANCES. If you turn on your faucets and nothing comes out, leave the faucets turned on and call a plumber. If you detect that your water pipes have frozen and burst, turn off the water at the main shut-off valve in the house; leave the water faucet turned on. (Make sure everyone in your family knows where the water shut-off valve is and how to open and close it.) NEVER try to thaw a pipe with a torch or other open flame. Water damage is preferable to burning down you house. You may be able to thaw a frozen pipe with the warm air from a hairdryer. Start by warming the pipe as close to the faucet as possible, working toward the coldest section of pipe. DO NOT use electrical appliances in areas of standing water because you could be electrocuted. |